RMS – Responsible Mohair Standard

At a time when sustainability and ethical production practices are increasingly important, the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) is a valuable guide for eco-conscious consumers, laying emphasis on transparency and quality.

What is the Responsible Mohair Standard?

The Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) is an independent and voluntary standard, developed in order to promote responsible mohair production. It ensures that mohair only comes from animals that are kept responsibly, in an appropriate way, thereby setting new standards in the spheres of animal welfare, soil management and social welfare. In addition, the RMS makes sure that the supply chain is transparent and reliable, it has created a benchmark across the sector for ethical and sustainable mohair production.

Main areas of interest for the RMS

The RMS covers six main areas:

1. Animals: species-appropriate care and shearing of goats.
2. Environment: sustainable land management.
3. People: fair and safe working conditions for workers.
4. Credibility: professional and independent certification.
5. Supply chain: traceability from the farm to the end product.
6. Stakeholder engagement: developed in collaboration with farmers, animal welfare experts, conservation specialists, brands and retailers.

You will find more information on the Textile Exchange website: Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) - Textile Exchange

MOHAIR 21

The entire production chain for MOHAIR 21 is RMS certified and 100 % transparent: all balls of MOHAIR 21 have their own QR-Code, which enables you to follow the individual ball back through all stages of production. Read more about "trace your yarn" here.

The name of the yarn comes, on the one hand, from the fibre content – it is composed of 58 % mohair and 42 % silk – and on the other hand from the extremely luxurious quality of the mohair used. The mohair fibres used for MOHAIR 21 have a diameter of 21 microns and are therefore amongst the softest and rarest fibres on the market, such fibres are otherwise used exclusively in the luxury sector. By way of comparison, the mohair fibres used for hand-knitting yarns usually have a diameter of 25–30 microns.

FARMING AND PRODUCTION OF MOHAIR 21

The mohair fibres for MOHAIR 21 all come from two farms, Rivervale and Glentara owned by Werner and GT Ferreria. These farms are situated in New South Wales, in southeast Australia, and have specialised in the production of high quality and eco-friendly merino and mohair fibres, which can be traced back to the specific flock and shear.

After shearing in southeast Australia, the fibres are brought to Italy, where the wool is combed. The entire production is carried out in Italy by our long-standing partner Lineapiù – from carding to dyeing, spinning, brushing and balling. The rich history of the industry in Italy, the special working methods, creativity and finishing skills make for innovative, high quality yarns.

The tweed yarn DONEGAL TWEED + takes its name from its birthplace. In the Donegal region of Ireland, we have developed the authentic tweed yarn in co-operation with the spinning mill ‘Donegal Yarns’. Thousands of years ago, the knowledge and tradition of hand-spinning and weaving was established in the green hills of the wild Atlantic coast, in the northernmost western part of the island. In an article from ’The Knitter’ issue 72/24, the editor Janne Graf writes about the history of tweed yarns from Donegal:

At the end of the 19th century the knitwear industry in Donegal transitioned from home-working to factory production, thanks to government support and increasing demand worldwide. With a carpet factory and the first spinning mill in Kilcar, 1899 marked the beginnings of the hand-knitting yarn production that we see in the region today. During the course of the 20th century, the state-subsidised industry continued to flourish and the spinning mills were taken over by private investors in 2007. Chris Weiniger, the current managing director of ‘Donegal Yarns’ spinning mill in Kilcarra, explains:

Authentic Donegal Tweed is recognisable for its bright tweed neps and a rustic, lively surface. The neps are also known as «burrs» in English, and are incorporated into a robust yarn. The impressive quality of the tweed yarns from Donegal has made «genuine Donegal Tweed» renowned throughout the world. To this day, the ‘Donegal Yarns‘ wool spinning mill is able to carry out the entire production process for traditional Donegal Tweed yarns in the small village of Kilcar, in south-west Donegal. In an interview with ‘The Knitter‘, Chris Weiniger tells us:

DONEGAL & DONEGAL TWEED +

Following on from DONEGAL, DONEGAL TWEED + is the second tweed yarn in our collection to be produced in Irland. DONEGAL TWEED + is a classic double-twist, spun from a loose roving. The roving is made with a pre-dyed wool fibre blend produced using 100% mulesing-free virgin wool. To ensure the high quality of the yarn, we have developed our own wool fibre blend comprising 56% Australian merino wool, 30% New Zealand Corriedale wool and 14% carbonised merino wool from all over the world.

Metreage: ∼105 m / 50 g | Needle size: Ø 4½ - 5 mm | Knitting gauge [10 x 10 cm] : 25 stitches x 17 rows.

The characteristic colours of the yarn result from the process of carding 8 dyed wool fibre mixtures, which are combined to produce a homogenous top. The 14% merino wool fibre for the tweed neps is cleaned using a chemical process to remove any plant residues and then dyed to create the contrasting colours for each base shade. These are then also incorporated into the top in the carding process.

The colours of DONEGAL and DONEGAL TWEED + reflect their origin, they are inspired by the green valleys and hills of the Donegal region, sprinkled with grey and white stones. The yarn takes on the violet, pink and blue hues of heather in summer and expresses the golden shades of autumn, the red berries of the rowan tree in winter and the yellow gorse flowers in spring.

The charming character and colours of the Donegal yarns are shown off to great advantage in classic and traditional knits. They convey a timeless look and can become heirloom pieces. The sweaters, cardigans and accessories made with DONEGAL and DONEGAL TWEED + have a rough appearance. But the yarns feel soft and lofty, especially after they have been washed. Residues of spinning oil in the yarn dissolve in the wash, bringing about a remarkable transformation. For some inspiration, browse through the new PUNTO 77 DONEGAL TWEED + which is full of cabled sweaters and cardigans in stocking stitch to knit with DONEGAL TWEED +.

You can also knit the thinner variant of DONEGAL double, if you select two different colours you can create an interesting mélange effect which enhances both shades. Take inspiration from the designs for DONEGAL and feel the authenticity of the traditional production process, where occasional irregularities are a feature of the quality of this genuine wool tweed.

Sources

DONEGAL YARNS – The Genuine Donegal, https://donegalyarns.com/.

The Knitter (German Edition), issue 72/24, www.craftery.link/knitter.

Did you know that alpacas are divided into two breeds, the Huacaya and the Suri? Or why alpaca yarns offer so many advantages in terms of sustainability?

Visit the world of alpacas with us, those fluffy animals with the skinny legs and long necks. A mix of inspiration, information and interest awaits you in Punto 76 - ALPACA TRAILS.

The contents of the alpaca knitting publication

You will find five of our alpaca yarns represented in this publication, along with 13 patterns. There are facts worth knowing about the properties of alpaca fibre, its origin, how alpacas are kept, the shearing of the animals and also the unique Easywash treatment.

Amongst others, you can learn about our alpaca blends ALPACA SOXX 4-ply and 6-ply, as well as ALPACA SOXX HANDDYED. The latter is dyed by hand in Peru, making each skein individual with a colour combination inspired by the traditions and nature of Peru.

Combining the exquisite alpaca fibre with a small amount of nylon makes the yarn particularly robust and long-lasting.

Alpaca yarn – and especially BABY ALPACA – is counted amongst the noble fibres of the textile industry due to its good thermoregulation, softness, warmth and flowing drape. It is precisely because of the last characteristic that we recommend you allow for a little stretch when planning a new knitting or crochet project. You can imitate this by making a generous sample and minimise it's effects by incorporating different elements like ribbing and structural patterns or seams.

The behaviour of fluffy SURI ALPACA is quite different, due to its lightness and construction it should be worked with large needles, giving the yarn space to attain its full volume.

Also, our alpaca yarns are now given an environmentally friendly, anti-felting treatment called Easywash, enabling them to be put in the washing machine without any problems.

You can find out more about alpaca yarn here: The properties of alpaca wool

What is TRACE YOUR YARN?

“Where does my yarn come from?“ Perhaps you have asked yourself this before? 
The story of the origin of a ball of wool is a very long one, so much has to be done before you can hold it in your hand. With TRACE YOUR YARN, we offer you the opportunity to follow selected yarns right back to the farm and herd of origin. Learn more about the history of the fibres, and something of the different processes that the yarns pass through.

How does TRACE YOUR YARN work?

On the label of some of our balls of wool you will find the TRACE YOUR YARN logo, together with a QR-Code. If you scan the code with your mobile phone, you will be taken to our TRACE YOUR YARN website. There you can enter the product number and name, and the lot number of your wool in the fields provided. Click on the search icon and select your item. Now you will be shown information about the farm of origin, the animals, the shearing and processes required to finish the yarn.

Which yarns are TRACEABLE?

Some of our finest yarns belong to our TRACE YOUR YARN programme, such as MOHAIR 21, LAMBSWOOL and the NOBLE YARNS. 
You can also trace some of our sock qualities back to their origin. Try scanning the label of your SUPER SOXX or TWIN SOXX yarn. 
If you explore the tracing process for ATLANTIS, POSEIDON, RAW #13 and RAW #14 you can learn about the shearing of Corriedale sheep in Patagonia. 

Wool is warm, soft and extremely comfortable to wear. Wool is very hygroscopic, can store a lot of moisture and thus has a heat-balancing effect (no sweating).

Wool feels dry up to a moisture content of approx. 35 %. In the scaly structure of the fibre as well as between the strongly crimped fibres, this "water" is stored in finest particles. Hand-knitting wool in Central Europe assumes a relative humidity of about 14% in normal climatic conditions, in heated rooms this humidity drops to 8-10 %, in fog the value increases to over 20 %.

The wool industry originated in England and in a maritime climate wool has a relative humidity of about 18.25 %. This value is the norm for international trade. This means that a ball of wool at 18.25 % humidity must weigh 50 g. In practice, however, the ball of wool loses some of its moisture. At about 14 %, this ball of wool weighs only about 47-48 g.

In production, the balls are not wound according to weight, but according to length. This length is calculated according to the target weight (25 g at 18.25 % relative humidity). This gives the consumer the correct length, regardless of the moisture.

In knitting, the length of the yarn is decisive and not the effective momentary weight. Thus, in practice, the legal requirements are met and moisture differences cannot become reduced values.

The company quality controls monitor these values very strictly and are also monitored by state control bodies. Normally, unit packs of 0.25, 0.5 kg or 1 kg are checked. Small deviations between individual balls are tolerated for manufacturing reasons.

Another peculiarity of the industry is that when dyeing, the darker yarns become slightly heavier, the lighter ones slightly lighter. With a given weight and the right moisture, the darker yarn will have a minimally shorter metrage, the lighter yarn a slightly longer metrage. In practice, however, this can be neglected.

In summary: The wool balls in our heated living rooms (especially in winter) are always a little "dried out" and thus a little too light. However, at the standardised moisture content, the run length corresponds to the legally specified target weight. In the laundry room or outdoors, the ball of wool will quickly recover to the standard weight without feeling damp. Wool, as the hair of the animal, is a naturally wonderful raw material. Let's enjoy the pleasant wearing properties and rejoice in the daily surprises!

PS. Each fibre has different moisture standards. Cotton e.g. 8.5 %, synthetic fibre approx. 2 %, etc.

Cotton yarns are amongst the kindest to your skin, the softest and most beloved of hand knitting yarns. With its many pleasing properties, such as good absorbency and a cool handle, cotton is very suitable for knitting and crocheting in summer. Defined, fine cotton twists are stable and soft to work with. Once knitted or crocheted, you have an easy-care and long-lasting product. 

Behind the use of cotton yarn stands thousands of years of complex and resource intensive production:

Yarns were produced from cotton as early as 5800 BC. For more than 3000 years, cotton has been cultivated and processed in India. In Europe, the beneficial qualities of the plant were first discovered in the Middle Ages. Cotton textiles were a luxury then, and they took more time to produce than silk textiles. With industrialisation, the production of material from cotton became more affordable in Europe.

But what makes cotton so unique ?

What we call cotton is the seed hairs of the mallow plant Gossypium. The seeds develop long, fine hairs all over their surface, the lint. These fibres, which grow in the seed capsule or boll, are used as a raw material to produce paper, building materials, cotton wool and, of course, yarns and textiles. The cotton fibre is made up of 95 % cellulose, this is the highest cellulose content of all plant fibres and makes cotton particularly hypoallergenic and kind to skin. The absorbency of cotton varies between 10 % and 20 %, according to humidity. Cotton fluffs up well and is extremely absorbent, with a very good breaking strength. The fibre is covered in a waxy layer, so will remain water repellent if left untreated.

Under the microscope, a cross-section shows cavities in the fibre and their slightly flat form. A cotton fibre is 10 to 60 mm long. The length and fineness of the fibre is crucial in determining the quality and processing. The finer the fibre, the higher the quality. While the longer fibres are made into yarns, the shorter ones are used to make cotton wool for the cosmetics industry.

For the plants to grow well, they require a large amount of water, a sandy loam soil and plenty of warmth. For this reason, cotton plants primarily grow in the tropical to subtropical regions around the equator. The most important countries for cotton cultivation include China and India, but also Turkey, Central Africa and America, and the Southern States of the USA. For perfect growth, the fields are irrigated. The crop is harvested after 8 to 12 months, during the dry season. Chemical pesticides are often used to protect very susceptible cotton plants.

Prior to industrialisation, the cotton bolls filled with lint needed to be harvested, sorted and carded by hand. Today, the harvesting of cotton and separation of the fibres from the boll is mostly done by machine. The seeds separated from the cotton are further processed to make oil, soap and wax or are used as seed. Further processing of the raw cotton yields lint, short fibres that cannot be spun. Lint may be used as a raw material, for example in the production of CUPRO. After the harvest, the cotton is classified, pressed into bales and delivered to the spinners. There the cotton is mechanically cleaned, carded and drawn parallel ready for spinning into yarn.

Pima cotton

Pima cotton is the designation for a high quality type of cotton. The fibres of Pima cotton are distinctive for their length, sheen and fineness. This type of cotton will only flourish in a few places, as it has specific requirements regarding soil conditions. Pima cotton is mainly grown in Egypt and the USA.

Organic cotton

High consumption of water, pesticides and genetically modified seeds is required to meet the high demand for cotton, but this has major implications for the ecosystem. Organic cotton is the answer for a more environmentally friendly alternative to conventional methods of cotton cultivation. Organic cotton is grown and cared for without the use of plant protection methods.

Gassed and mercerised cotton yarn

On the ball bands of our cotton yarns you will find the description «mercerised and gassed cotton». 

Mercerised means that a cotton yarn has been improved by putting it through a chemical process using caustic soda. The fibres of the cotton swell up and have a more rounded cross-section with a smoother surface. This gives the yarn a shiny effect, along with a silky touch. After mercerisation, the cotton yarns are softer, they have increased breaking strength and are better protected against shrinkage.

Gassing, on the other hand, is the process whereby any small protruding hairs are singed off the cotton yarn. This produces a smoother surface, which makes it easier to crochet or knit with the yarn.
 

Cotton at LANGYARNS

We offer you a broad selection of high quality cotton yarns. In this range you will find 100 % organic cotton yarns, as well as yarns comprising Pima cotton and more conventional cotton fibres. The fibres with the most beautiful qualities and necessary attributes are chosen to complement the yarn construction. The origin of the cotton fibres used includes cotton from Turkey, Peru and the USA. We have developed classic threads for you, created light clouds of cotton and invented stunning effect yarns with explosions of colour. Our cotton yarns are produced with great care and dedication in order to bring you the maximum enjoyment from your knit and crochet! 

To our cotton yarns...
 

Sources

Material Archiv 2024, Baumwolle, https://materialarchiv.ch/de/ma:material_561?type=all (ref 15.04.24).

Hessnatur Textillexikon 2024, Bio-Baumwolle, https://www.hessnatur.com/magazin/textillexikon/baumwolle/ (ref 15.04.2024).

Remei 2024, https://remei.ch/fibre-to-fashion/bio-baumwolle/ (ref 15.04.2024).